A little over 10 years ago a good friend and colleague of mine took me surfing for the first time. We headed out one morning to a place called San Onofre which is located right by the most northern part of Camp Pendleton Marine Base right where San Diego and Orange counties meet. We went down to a place called Old Mans which is primarily a great spot for long boarding. It felt a little bit like a time warp because the beach and parking lot seemed like it would have looked 50 years ago. A sand parking lot below the weather worn cliffs. The only difference I suppose is the amount of surfers you will find on any given morning.
I immediately fell in love with the sport. To me it is one of the most interesting, challenging, and unique activities I had ever done. It is simple in concept and yet for most, impossible to master. It is not man against nature but rather man at one with nature. I grew up playing a variety of team sports and as an adult have stayed pretty active mountain/road biking, running, snowboarding, and hiking. But I still find surfing the most challenging, fun, rejuvenating, and favorite sport.
So I have adopted waverider as somewhat of a personal mantra because I find the metaphor of “ride the wave” to be nearly universal in its application. We have all heard it applied in many different situations. It nearly always represents something good that is happening, but it also implies that there is an end so enjoy it.
I find that most things in life come in waves. Wether it is a job, project, relationship, or even a state of physical or spiritual well being. With the natural ebbs and flows of life what more fitting term than “ride the wave”? So in a way we are all waveriders as we paddle to get in the sweet spot of an economic upturn, job, romance, technology, or just about anything we have a passion for.
In surfing and life in general we catch some and we miss some. Sometimes we are in the exact spot and get the ride of our life. At other times we get crushed or just miss it as is rolls right under or by us. And then there are times when we are just sitting in still water looking at the horizon hoping for the swell to pick up.
So for what its worth I chose that theme for a small web presence where I can share my ride. So “Choose Wisely, Ride Well”, enjoy your ride and may the conductor smile upon you.
Thanks for stopping by.
